I keep telling myself that if I didn't do an entry soon I would forget what I have done. It's weird to think that things that happened only a week ago I can hardly remember. I think it is due to the overwhelming amount of new experiences that occur everyday when traveling, especially in places with vast cultural differences. These new experiences contribute to the beauty of traveling and I guess that is why so many people just grab a bag, fill it with necessities and bail overseas for indefinite amounts of time.
Sapa for me was a chance to see another part of Vietnam-the traditional side. That probably sounds cliche but you tend to forget that in many parts of Asia, people still live in huts thatched with mud and sticks and for them, technology is unnecessary. Dave and I signed up for the full day hike to the village of Lau Chai, down in the valley near Sapa. (though 5 hours of mainly downhill doesn't really constitute a hike in my eyes). Our guide was a local H'mong girl from the village of Lau Chai and I soon discovered she was also 19. Upon further discussion, I learnt that she walked 14km a day - a loop from her village to Sapa and back - to earn money being a guide. I also discovered that she had never been anywhere else in Vietnam. I naively assumed she of course had been to Hanoi at least once, but I was wrong. This once again enforced to me how lucky I am to have the opportunity to travel the world, let alone my own country.
The following day we returned to Hanoi on the sleeper train and again met up with Tuan for "brunch". After brunch Tuan kindly invited us to his home, where he gave us some surprisingly wise advice on many aspects of life (though his demeanour seemed to remain extremely casual while doing so and I'm not even sure if he realised how much Dave and I took away from the discussions.) I can remember one quote among the many, this one being more comical: "The Vietnamese use their hands for three things; Chicken, sticky rice and women" He also highlighted the ridiculous real estate prices in Hanoi to which I was amazed, as a Vietnamese person on an average wage would take hundreds of years to pay off a mortgage on the median house price.
After the real estate talk Dave and I headed back to where we were staying, had some dinner and got some rest for an early flight to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
Heat engulfed as we left the airport. It was definitely hotter and more humid than Hanoi. We caught a Tuk-Tuk to our accomodation in the city, had a walk around and then decided to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (sometimes known as S-21), the head prison for torture and execution during the years of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot. Between 1975 and 1979 20,000 prisoners were sent to S-21 and by the end of 1979-when the Khmer Rouge lost power- there were 7 people left alive. I think that the museum was much more confronting and had a stronger impact because it has been left unchanged since those horrific years under Pol Pot. The irony of the prison was that it was originally a school, a place that is synonymous with laughter and enjoyment. This idea was turned on its head when it was made into a prison. The countless black and white photos of people made my head spin and the fact that this prison was smack-bang in the middle of the city must have been torture for the victims, as a busy road is literally within 50 metres of prison cells.
Once again the prison visit correlated with my modern history studies as our Indochina topic included the uprising of the Khmer Rouge and also their years in power. The two hardest things for me to wrap my head around were firstly, that it was in such close proximity to now (being only about 30 years ago) and secondly that there was literally no response from any western power whatsoever. Historians estimate between 1.5 and 3 million people were killed. There is no way that western powers couldn't have known that something bad was going on and made at least some effort to stop it. I also watched a movie while there that made you think more about the humanity of it all, as opposed to the numbers of people killed. The movie highlighted the fact that these people were sons and daughters and mothers and fathers.
That night we went out to dinner with Bill, Didge and Archie, my Mum's friend's brother and his family, who funnily enough is currently the head prosecutor for the War Crimes tribunal in Cambodia for men involved in the mass genocide during the Khmer Rouge years. It was interesting to hear his thoughts on the topic and it was also great to have a free dinner (thanks heaps guys, we must have looked like pretty bedraggled backpackers at that stage).
The following morning we went to the Chuong Ek Killing Fields. This was the place where the victims of S-21 were sent to be executed. It was another sobering experience and again reiterated the points that I mentioned above. The brutality of it all was incomprehensible. I left with mixed feelings of the place.
That night we decided to sample the nightlife of Phnom Penh. With beers costing 50c a glass, it was all too alluring to ignore. It was a fun night and we met some British girls who promised me a "Skins tour of Bristol". So excited. Haha. Hopefully they'll keep their promise.
The following morning it was time to board the bus for a 6 hour drive to Siem Reap, home of the famous Angkor Wat temple. (Some people may also recognise Ta Prohm temple from a scene in Tomb Raider). I quickly learnt that Cambodian roads don't agree with a hangover and it wasn't the most fun bus trip ever, but it was all part of the learning curve that is travelling. We were picked up by Pahna, who has now become our Tuk-Tuk man in Siem Reap, and taken to our accomodation at the Golden Mango. When we got there we had to double check it was the right place - it was cheaper than any hostel in Siem Reap yet if i had to guess I would have thought it was at least $50 US a night. Apparently not. It is a Khmer family-run business and I would recommend it to anyone from a budget traveller to a person wanting more. Because for $6 US a night I don't think anyone could complain.
I'm way to exhausted from writing this to possibly talk about our temple visit in this entry. It would be superficial and for some reason this blog has been quite draining. My adventures in Siem Reap will be up soon for anyone interested. Cheers for reading and farewell!
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Vietnam 15/5 - 18/5
HANOI
I'm pretty sure I finished my last blog by mentioning that we were about to go and see Ho Chi Minh in his Mausoleum. As I said, I studied Uncle Ho for history and I remember one of his quotes that stuck in my head. He was quoted as saying something like this: "When I die, I wish to be cremated and my ashes scattered in the country because burial wastes our precious farmland"
The fact that Ho is in a massive mausoleum is contrary to his wishes, something that provoked my curiosity. I can understand that since he is a national hero, they chose to preserve him. It was a weird feeling upon walking in, the eerie quiet and cold air. After visiting Ho, we spent a few hours investigating the museum, looking at his collection of cars and looking at the house where he lived for much of the Vietnam War until his death.
The rest of the day consisted of walking around the city, taking in the sights and sounds. That night in the hostel we met possibly the two funniest guys ever. Humour probably goes hand-in-hand with being Irish but these guys were just effortlessly hilarious. We then hit the hay for an early (well 8am seemed early) transfer to Halong Bay for our overnight cruise.
HOW LONG BAY?
(yet another of Dave's bad jokes)
After 4 hours of driving, we arrived in Halong city, awaiting our boat out to the Vietnamese junk (though it was far from junk - Dave and I agreed on paying a bit more for our Halong Bay experience. and we were definitely rewarded). Our group consisted of 3 Norwegians, 2 Aussies, 2 Swiss and a French guy (affectionately named Frenchie between Dave and I). I had a great time visiting huge caves, kayaking around the bay and my first swim in saltwater in three weeks which I thoroughly enjoyed.
We bonded with the Aussies as they were far more friendly and outgoing. We shared countless stories over a few too many beers and red wine and got some great travel tips from some seasoned travelers (Frenchie helped us out with Cambodia and Laos too). The food was amazing, as we ate some of the best seafood I have ever had. They even catered for Dave really well which he was happy about.
Halong Bay is truly an amazing sight and just the view from the boat alone was worth the money we forked out for the trip. I had a truly great time and would recommend it to anyone going to Vietnam.
TURTLE TIME - VIETNAMESE STYLE
Upon arriving back in Hanoi, a Vietnamese friend named Tuan kindly picked us up and took us back to his hotel. I was left to shower, with Tuan's words still bouncing around in my head. "We are eating traditional tonight, and it might get a bit weird." I made a conscious decision before I left for my travels to, if the opportunity presented itself, indulge in the local cuisine, no matter how confronting it may seem. Now it was time to follow thoughts with action.
WARNING: anyone who is a bit squeamish or has an affection for turtles may not want to continue. (Specifically Georgia, who used to have a pet turtle)
Dave and I were taken to a place that Tuan assured was never visited by westerners. Tuan ordered in Vietnamese, and soon after French Fries and Fried Corn arrived (so far, so good). Next to me was a glass of traditional Vietnamese spirit made from rice. I asked Tuan what it was for and he told me I'd find out soon enough. Then a turtle was brought out. My initial thought was "oh cool, they have turtles here".Then the guy weighed it and a sudden realisation overcame me. We were going to eat it. I watched apprehensively as the guy seemed to break its neck, and then slice it with a knife. Blood was poured into a glass. The red liquid was added to the spirit next to me and then into shot glasses. My time had come and it was about to get "weird". Luckily I had two beers under my belt so my apprehension was slightly less. After downing the shots, a bowl was brought out with what looked like chicken drummetes. It wasn't chicken.
Followed by the drummettes, a green liquid was brought out and added to more of the rice spirit. Tempted to not even ask what it was, Tuan swiftly informed me that it was in fact turtle liver. I downed a few of those shots followed by mouthfuls of beer. A hot plate was brought to the table and in it was the remaining parts of the animal, including the shell! Apparently, and as i soon discovered, heating turtle shell makes it soft. After sampling some shell followed by a Turtle testicle. Yes, I know, I still can't believe it myself. I had to draw the line. Tuan insisted I eat the head, to which I swiftly declined. I thought it was enough tradition for one night.
I would like to say thanks to Dave, who as most people know is vegan. He coped with it really well and I'm sure the experience was much more confronting for him than me. Cheers man!
And with that the night was over, I thanked Tuan for the experience. It was time to board the 8 hour overnight train to Sapa. You can read about all the adventures from Sapa in my next blog! Till then, farewell.
I'm pretty sure I finished my last blog by mentioning that we were about to go and see Ho Chi Minh in his Mausoleum. As I said, I studied Uncle Ho for history and I remember one of his quotes that stuck in my head. He was quoted as saying something like this: "When I die, I wish to be cremated and my ashes scattered in the country because burial wastes our precious farmland"
The fact that Ho is in a massive mausoleum is contrary to his wishes, something that provoked my curiosity. I can understand that since he is a national hero, they chose to preserve him. It was a weird feeling upon walking in, the eerie quiet and cold air. After visiting Ho, we spent a few hours investigating the museum, looking at his collection of cars and looking at the house where he lived for much of the Vietnam War until his death.
The rest of the day consisted of walking around the city, taking in the sights and sounds. That night in the hostel we met possibly the two funniest guys ever. Humour probably goes hand-in-hand with being Irish but these guys were just effortlessly hilarious. We then hit the hay for an early (well 8am seemed early) transfer to Halong Bay for our overnight cruise.
HOW LONG BAY?
(yet another of Dave's bad jokes)
After 4 hours of driving, we arrived in Halong city, awaiting our boat out to the Vietnamese junk (though it was far from junk - Dave and I agreed on paying a bit more for our Halong Bay experience. and we were definitely rewarded). Our group consisted of 3 Norwegians, 2 Aussies, 2 Swiss and a French guy (affectionately named Frenchie between Dave and I). I had a great time visiting huge caves, kayaking around the bay and my first swim in saltwater in three weeks which I thoroughly enjoyed.
We bonded with the Aussies as they were far more friendly and outgoing. We shared countless stories over a few too many beers and red wine and got some great travel tips from some seasoned travelers (Frenchie helped us out with Cambodia and Laos too). The food was amazing, as we ate some of the best seafood I have ever had. They even catered for Dave really well which he was happy about.
Halong Bay is truly an amazing sight and just the view from the boat alone was worth the money we forked out for the trip. I had a truly great time and would recommend it to anyone going to Vietnam.
TURTLE TIME - VIETNAMESE STYLE
Upon arriving back in Hanoi, a Vietnamese friend named Tuan kindly picked us up and took us back to his hotel. I was left to shower, with Tuan's words still bouncing around in my head. "We are eating traditional tonight, and it might get a bit weird." I made a conscious decision before I left for my travels to, if the opportunity presented itself, indulge in the local cuisine, no matter how confronting it may seem. Now it was time to follow thoughts with action.
WARNING: anyone who is a bit squeamish or has an affection for turtles may not want to continue. (Specifically Georgia, who used to have a pet turtle)
Dave and I were taken to a place that Tuan assured was never visited by westerners. Tuan ordered in Vietnamese, and soon after French Fries and Fried Corn arrived (so far, so good). Next to me was a glass of traditional Vietnamese spirit made from rice. I asked Tuan what it was for and he told me I'd find out soon enough. Then a turtle was brought out. My initial thought was "oh cool, they have turtles here".Then the guy weighed it and a sudden realisation overcame me. We were going to eat it. I watched apprehensively as the guy seemed to break its neck, and then slice it with a knife. Blood was poured into a glass. The red liquid was added to the spirit next to me and then into shot glasses. My time had come and it was about to get "weird". Luckily I had two beers under my belt so my apprehension was slightly less. After downing the shots, a bowl was brought out with what looked like chicken drummetes. It wasn't chicken.
Followed by the drummettes, a green liquid was brought out and added to more of the rice spirit. Tempted to not even ask what it was, Tuan swiftly informed me that it was in fact turtle liver. I downed a few of those shots followed by mouthfuls of beer. A hot plate was brought to the table and in it was the remaining parts of the animal, including the shell! Apparently, and as i soon discovered, heating turtle shell makes it soft. After sampling some shell followed by a Turtle testicle. Yes, I know, I still can't believe it myself. I had to draw the line. Tuan insisted I eat the head, to which I swiftly declined. I thought it was enough tradition for one night.
I would like to say thanks to Dave, who as most people know is vegan. He coped with it really well and I'm sure the experience was much more confronting for him than me. Cheers man!
And with that the night was over, I thanked Tuan for the experience. It was time to board the 8 hour overnight train to Sapa. You can read about all the adventures from Sapa in my next blog! Till then, farewell.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Stark Contrasts - Hanoi, Vietnam 15/5/2010
I could write a list of all the contrasts between Japan and Vietnam but it would take me forever. So I'll mention a few main ones.
1. The climate - we went from 16 degrees in Kyoto to 35 degrees in Hanoi in the space of 24 hours.
2. The transport system - from arguably the most efficient transport system in the world to arguably one of the least efficient.
3. Cost for travelling - comparing beer prices, Japan was around $3-4 while Vietnam is around $1-2 (possibly less)
4. The weather - from relatively sunny or partly cloudy to monsoonal thunderstorms that Dave thinks will "tear my poncho to pieces"
It has certainly been an effort to adjust but for some reason I have found more comfort in the organised chaos of Vietnam than the polite and orderly Japan. After saying farewell to Vince and Ann, we headed off on the Shinkansen for Tokyo and then on to Narita where we stayed in a hostel near the airport. I spent the night suffering insomnia and watched Japanese TV till 1 in the morning. I'm pretty sure one of the shows was about chefs who have really old benchtops - like 100+ years old. At least, that's what Yama, our host, told me.
Upon arriving in Hanoi I was met by an old Vietnamese friend, who we met on our family trip in 2003, Tuan. I was surprised that after 7 years I still recognised him straight away. (Although he couldn't believe how tall I was and asked if i had grown 2 feet since I last saw him)
It was a strange feeling as we weaved through the chaos on our trip into the city. It was almost as if I was coming home to a land I have only been once before for 3 weeks. I suppose, since I am travelling to so many places this year, that anywhere that is vaguely familiar will provide a sense of homeliness - even if it couldn't be any more different to my actual home.
After paying a visit to Tom's House (Tuan's hotel - guess who it is named after?), we sorted out trips to Halong Bay and Sapa. There was a sudden realisation of how short a week in Vietnam is, and our schedule is tight to say the least!
We arrived at our hostel, just after a group of about 5o arriving from Laos. As we had to wait for a while to check in, we took the opportunity to take a walk around the old quarter of Hanoi. It was a truly sensual experience. Our ears were filled with the constant sound of car and bike horns and wafting smells of Vietnamese food filled our noses. As a result, Dave and I were eager to fill our stomachs with some Vietnamese food. We went into what appeared to be an nice restaurant, and upon checking the menu discovered mains were around $5-6. It took us seconds to make a decision and we ordered what could only be described as a feast.
With my stomach filled to the brim, it was time to get some sleep. My eagerness for a cold shower soon disintegrated as fatigue took over and I was asleep before I got the chance to think.
I awoke this morning with the sound of thunder ringing in my ears. The forecasts were right. But with only 2 full days in Hanoi, no weather will stop us. After fuelling up on Vegemite (I left one of my two tubes at Vince's house, much to my dismay), I am ready to head off into the city. Today we are heading to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum. I'm sure it will be an experience as I did happen to study Uncle Ho for Modern History in the HSC. I'll make sure I take mum's advice and not cross my arms in there. (sign of disrespect). Happy Birthday for tomorrow by the way mum! (I'll be in Halong Bay tomorrow and I'm not sure if they have reception?)
It is time now to head off into whatever the monsoon can throw at us. I'll try and do another update soonish. Until then, from Hanoi Vietnam, bye!
1. The climate - we went from 16 degrees in Kyoto to 35 degrees in Hanoi in the space of 24 hours.
2. The transport system - from arguably the most efficient transport system in the world to arguably one of the least efficient.
3. Cost for travelling - comparing beer prices, Japan was around $3-4 while Vietnam is around $1-2 (possibly less)
4. The weather - from relatively sunny or partly cloudy to monsoonal thunderstorms that Dave thinks will "tear my poncho to pieces"
It has certainly been an effort to adjust but for some reason I have found more comfort in the organised chaos of Vietnam than the polite and orderly Japan. After saying farewell to Vince and Ann, we headed off on the Shinkansen for Tokyo and then on to Narita where we stayed in a hostel near the airport. I spent the night suffering insomnia and watched Japanese TV till 1 in the morning. I'm pretty sure one of the shows was about chefs who have really old benchtops - like 100+ years old. At least, that's what Yama, our host, told me.
Upon arriving in Hanoi I was met by an old Vietnamese friend, who we met on our family trip in 2003, Tuan. I was surprised that after 7 years I still recognised him straight away. (Although he couldn't believe how tall I was and asked if i had grown 2 feet since I last saw him)
It was a strange feeling as we weaved through the chaos on our trip into the city. It was almost as if I was coming home to a land I have only been once before for 3 weeks. I suppose, since I am travelling to so many places this year, that anywhere that is vaguely familiar will provide a sense of homeliness - even if it couldn't be any more different to my actual home.
After paying a visit to Tom's House (Tuan's hotel - guess who it is named after?), we sorted out trips to Halong Bay and Sapa. There was a sudden realisation of how short a week in Vietnam is, and our schedule is tight to say the least!
We arrived at our hostel, just after a group of about 5o arriving from Laos. As we had to wait for a while to check in, we took the opportunity to take a walk around the old quarter of Hanoi. It was a truly sensual experience. Our ears were filled with the constant sound of car and bike horns and wafting smells of Vietnamese food filled our noses. As a result, Dave and I were eager to fill our stomachs with some Vietnamese food. We went into what appeared to be an nice restaurant, and upon checking the menu discovered mains were around $5-6. It took us seconds to make a decision and we ordered what could only be described as a feast.
With my stomach filled to the brim, it was time to get some sleep. My eagerness for a cold shower soon disintegrated as fatigue took over and I was asleep before I got the chance to think.
I awoke this morning with the sound of thunder ringing in my ears. The forecasts were right. But with only 2 full days in Hanoi, no weather will stop us. After fuelling up on Vegemite (I left one of my two tubes at Vince's house, much to my dismay), I am ready to head off into the city. Today we are heading to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Museum. I'm sure it will be an experience as I did happen to study Uncle Ho for Modern History in the HSC. I'll make sure I take mum's advice and not cross my arms in there. (sign of disrespect). Happy Birthday for tomorrow by the way mum! (I'll be in Halong Bay tomorrow and I'm not sure if they have reception?)
It is time now to head off into whatever the monsoon can throw at us. I'll try and do another update soonish. Until then, from Hanoi Vietnam, bye!
Saturday, May 8, 2010
200km + A Bike + The Inland Sea
After an emotionally tolling day in Hiroshima, it was the body's turn. We began with a ferry ride from Hiroshima, made a quick stop at a maritime museum and then it was time to head out of the city. Dave and I were to be Vince's "guinea pigs" for a new tour he was planning to do in the future.
Upon arriving at our accommodation on the first night (which was nothing short of phenomenal), I shed myself of clothes and apprehension soon after, to take part in a traditional Japanese tradition - the public bath (or onsen). It was a new experience for me, which I thoroughly enjoyed (and also felt a hell of a lot cleaner after copius amounts of sweating during that day of riding). Following the onsen, we were treated to a Japanese seafood extravanganza of sushimi, prawns, clams and grilled fish, accompanied by traditional Japanese tea. It was a bit confronting for Dave, understandably as he is vegan, but the food was magnificent. I did notice that the Japanese can make a small meal look deceptively big. Vince later told me that the Japanese have a concept in which they intend to only eat till they are 80% full, though I don't think that applies to Sumo wrestlers. Here are some photos of our seafood feast on the first night, with me and Dave dressed in traditional Japanese robes.
The following morning we were treated to a buffet, a rare commodity in our travels this year I'm sure. I can assure everyone that I made the most of this opportunity, and with the knowledge that I was about to ride 80kms, definately got value for money out of it. The day involved more riding along the coast and we also crossed the longest bridge I have ever seen, around 5km to get to the island of Shikoku. After a great lunch we arrived at our accommodation for the night, yet again in a beautiful setting nestled in the hills in the small Japanese town of Nibugawa, and went to another onsen, this time overlooking a creek. It was followed again by a seafood dinner in traditional style, accompanied by some sake - which in my opinion tastes somewhat similar to a cheap vodka - but I decided that it was a necessary thing to try while in the homeland of the rice wine.
My main source of apprehension for the whole ride centred around the following morning - a 15km climb. I told Vince and Dave that when speaking in relation to cycling, "climb" and "fun" should not be in the same sentence unless to say that "A climb is NOT fun". Luckily, I made it all the same and on reaching the peak of the hill I was greeted with a few hoots and smiles - and more importantly a 10km downhill to compensate.
The most interesting part of the final day for me was on the train home. As we crossed one of the many bridges from Shikoku on our way back to the mainland, we witnessed a myriad of huge ships passing through what must be a sheltered path between islands. It represented another side of Japan - the sheer scale of industrial activity. Probably sounds boring to most, but being interested in Economics this showed me the sheer scale of industrial activity on which Japan's economy prospers.
We returned to the mainland to a place called Matsiyama, where we were to go to a 300 year old onsen in the middle of the city. We had one factor against us, time. We had to get from the train station to the onsen across town and back again before our Shinkansen (bullet train) left at 3.30. Navigating through backstreets, we made it there in 20 minutes, and decided on a 15 minute time limit in the onsen. We then had half an hour to get back to the station, disassemble our bikes and get on the train. After an adrenaline fuelled ride through the city, we made it back in 10 minutes - which must have been some kind of record. We made it to the train on time, and upon getting back to Kyoto it certainly felt like home. A weird feeling considering we have been here for all but a week.
After the apprehension preceding the trip, and the satisfaction and enjoyment after the trip I (plus the sore quads) can say I thoroughly enjoyed our adventure. I'm sure that had it not been for Vince, I would never have seen the side of Japan I was lucky enough to experience. So I would like to thank him for his hospitality, and putting up with us and our horrible jokes over those few days - Cheers Vince!
I apologise if this update seems vague, I am quite tired after a big day. But a few people have been hassling me to do it (i.e Maia and Mum). Hope you enjoyed it. I'll keep anyone who is reading it posted with more stories from the land of Japan. Sayonara!
Friday, May 7, 2010
Hiroshima 3/5
The trip started with the earliest start of my travels so far - 5.45. The trio of Vince, Dave and I got up, had breakfast and rode to Kyoto station to start the somewhat challenging (at least the first time) task of dissembling our bikes to be able to board the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. I have, for a long time, wanted to visit Hiroshima. Knowing an extremely vague, possibly ill informed view of the horrific events of August 6 1945, I had a desire to know more. As expected, the experience of Museum dedicated to those particular events was informative, confronting and sobering. But above all, I noticed the stance that the Japanese people have taken. They appear to have adopted the ideal of peace. One could argue that many countries take a similar stance. But the sincerity of the Japanese on this subject, their true understanding of how utterly wrong war is and the emphasis taken on learning from their mistakes struck me as fascinating. I thankfully purchased the audio tour of the museum, and from the outset it was evident that the people of this country really did just sit down, think about what happened. They considered the consequences that burden the people involved (both directly and indirectly) and decided it really isn't worth it.
It can be said that this is not a case of not practising what you preach. To provide one example in an attempt to give substance to the Japanese ideal: Every time their is a nuclear weapons test anywhere in the world, the Mayor of Hiroshima writes to the UN, pleading for an embargo on the possession of nuclear warheads. A display in the museum showed thousands upon thousands of these letters. This also embodied an idea of perserverance, as the Japanese aren't naive enough to think that this is a short-term problem with short term answers.
On a lighter note, our visit to Hiroshima coincided with the Flower Festival, which meant that everywhere we went there were dancers, karaoke and of course flowers. Here is a photo from the museum showing the memorial park dedicated to Hiroshima.
As you can see, I was definately affected by my experience in Hiroshima and it has led to a realisation of many things and given perspective on many issues. Although I miss people at home - one in particular - I realise that things could be much worse and for now, I am happy enough knowing that the people I love are safe from the horrific consequences of the many wars that continue to be fought around the world.
It can be said that this is not a case of not practising what you preach. To provide one example in an attempt to give substance to the Japanese ideal: Every time their is a nuclear weapons test anywhere in the world, the Mayor of Hiroshima writes to the UN, pleading for an embargo on the possession of nuclear warheads. A display in the museum showed thousands upon thousands of these letters. This also embodied an idea of perserverance, as the Japanese aren't naive enough to think that this is a short-term problem with short term answers.
On a lighter note, our visit to Hiroshima coincided with the Flower Festival, which meant that everywhere we went there were dancers, karaoke and of course flowers. Here is a photo from the museum showing the memorial park dedicated to Hiroshima.
As you can see, I was definately affected by my experience in Hiroshima and it has led to a realisation of many things and given perspective on many issues. Although I miss people at home - one in particular - I realise that things could be much worse and for now, I am happy enough knowing that the people I love are safe from the horrific consequences of the many wars that continue to be fought around the world.
Kyoto - 2/5
After another reasonably late start, Vince, Dave and I headed through the city to visit the Heien Shrine. Nestled in the corner of the city surrounded by mountains, the Heien shrine also hosts the largest gate (which is the entrance to the temple) in all of Japan. The gate alone was a sight to see, and having a mild interest in architecture the gate was a marvel of both engineering and aesthetics. We proceeded to head further into the Heien shrine. Vince suggested visiting the Zen gardens, a suggestion both Dave and I quickly agreed with. After removing our shoes, we proceeded to make our way through a maze of simplistic Japanese buildings, surrounded by the most amazingly simple yet eloquent gardens. I personally love the Japanese aesthetic and seeing the peacefulness it exuded was truly beautiful. I found it quite amusing that the garden design was even able to incorporate subtly placed motion sensors to ensure people wouldn't enter the garden, which we didn't actually notice for the first 15 minutes. These photos don't really convey the beauty of the gardens, but they are an example of the aesthetic which I'm sure most people probably recognise.
For lunch we stumbled upon what could only be described as Dave's ideal festival - a Vegan festival. I am happy enough to concede that most, but not all, vegan food tastes pretty damn good. The food we had at Vegan festival was no different and made Dave seriously contemplate moving to Japan - an abundance of Soya Beans, vegan festivals, rice - what more could he want?
A day of riding around Kyoto reiterated what a beautiful city it is, not to mention the fact that it is the historical Mecca of Japan. Kyoto has engaged my love of history, architecture and of course food. This has been enhanced by the ability to explore this city on bikes (due to the generosity of Vince). Although I am not a seasoned traveller by any means, I have already learnt that bikes are by far the best way to immerse yourself in a city, find it's little nooks and crannies and make your experience as fulfilling as it can be. My recommendation probably doesn't extend to cities in Vietnam though, as I would like to stay alive for the rest of my trip.
For lunch we stumbled upon what could only be described as Dave's ideal festival - a Vegan festival. I am happy enough to concede that most, but not all, vegan food tastes pretty damn good. The food we had at Vegan festival was no different and made Dave seriously contemplate moving to Japan - an abundance of Soya Beans, vegan festivals, rice - what more could he want?A day of riding around Kyoto reiterated what a beautiful city it is, not to mention the fact that it is the historical Mecca of Japan. Kyoto has engaged my love of history, architecture and of course food. This has been enhanced by the ability to explore this city on bikes (due to the generosity of Vince). Although I am not a seasoned traveller by any means, I have already learnt that bikes are by far the best way to immerse yourself in a city, find it's little nooks and crannies and make your experience as fulfilling as it can be. My recommendation probably doesn't extend to cities in Vietnam though, as I would like to stay alive for the rest of my trip.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Tokyo + Kyoto - 29/4-1/5
TOKYO
After writing my last blog update, Dave and I decided to head over to a part of Tokyo we hadn't yet visited called Roppongi. We realised when we got there that the only thing that seemed to be worth doing was to go up Tokyo tower. So after some debating whether to pay, we decided not to be stingy and so it. Though we did try to get in as 15 year olds again, but this time were unsuccessful and had to pay adult price. I was thankful we did as the view from the tower gave us a fantastic overview of the city, and the sheer scale of Tokyo. Being a logically-minded person, seeing Tokyo from above provided me with a better sense of direction and understanding of where everything was (too bad it was on the last night). Below are a few photos, both of the tower and from inside it.
We then decided to go back the bright lights of Shibuya, which were even more spectacular at night. Our immaturity got the better of us and again we decided to play games on the crossing, trying to touch a pole on each corner of the crossing before the lights went green again. We also had an interesting experience, as two different guys asked us at seperate places if we were available for modelling. Unfortunately it wasn't for another few weeks so with regret we informed them we were unavailable. Scam? We chose to believe it wasn't.
When we returned to Asakusa and Khaosan (our hostel name), our Dutch roomie Patrick asked to go out for a few beers with his Dutch friends. While on the way to the bar, we discovered some interesting facts about the Netherlands:
-People that called it "Holland" are wrong - Holland is a province within the Netherlands
- Every year in the speech from the Pope, he always thanks the Netherlands for the Tulips
- After asking what hello was in Dutch, Patrick responded with "Hullo!"
After a few beers -Dave's first drink in 20 months - we went home and to bed ready to get up for the train to Kyoto at 10:30 the next morning. Below is a photo of Dave and Patrick in "Mosburger", because Patrick really wanted a hamburger.
KYOTO
If I fell in love with Tokyo, then i don't have words to describe Kyoto. It has lived up to and exceeded all expectations. The fact that we have done all our commuting via bike may have added to the allure of the city. Dave's uncle Vince was kind enough to provide accomodation and also borrow his bikes, mine of which is brand new.
We caught a "Hikari" train from Tokyo to Kyoto, making the 450 km journey take all of 2 and half hours. We were also privileged with a great view of Mt Fuji on the way, as we had a perfectly clear day. Upon arriving in Kyoto, we were greeted by Vince who was keen to show us the view from the top of Kyoto station. As Vince said, the building effectively cuts Kyoto in half as it is about 500m long and 10 stories high (there is not an abundance of high rise buildings in Kyoto, especially compared to Tokyo.) After settling in, we rode into town to meet Vince's wife Ann for dinner at a Vegan restaurant. Our first glimpses of the city were splendid as we rode along the side of the river and weaved through the many backstreets within the maze that is Kyoto.
The next morning we woke up semi-late to be greeted with a "Good Afternoon" by Vince. We ate breakfast which included plenty of toasted bagels (it's as if Dave never knew they existed, as he wouldn't stop talking about them). The four of us jumped on bikes and made our way through the city till we made it to Mt Daimongi, on the outskirts of the city (Kyoto is actually surrounded by mountains, giving a Lismore-esque feel apart from the fact it is 50 times bigger and 1000 times nicer.) A short hike up the hill revealed a breathtaking view of this marvellous city, as you can see in the photo below.
We then had lunch at what may possibly be Dave's new favourite restaurant - The Tofu Cafe. After a delicious lunch we had a Soft cream - Soy milk ice cream. To my great surprise, Vanilla soy ice cream actually tasted good. Yes, good... As you can see from the photo below, Dave was in heaven.
Following lunch and an ice cream, Dave and I reverted to something a little more touristy and went to look at Kinkakuji (Japanese for golden pavillion). It was a phenomenal site, seeing an old Emperor's Gold house. The phrase "How's the serenity?" was thrown around a few times between us. As you can see below, Kinkakuji is quite a sight and i wouldn't mind living there myself!
I think that is enough for now, as a Japanese Yebisu beer is calling and the smell of Dave's Indian curry is wafting out of the kitchen and into the living room. We go on a 4 day bike ride on Monday. I'm apprehensive, mainly due to my fitness levels but I'm sure it will be an amazing way to see Japan. Our trip includes visiting Hiroshima. A place that I am very interested to go, though I'm sure the experience will be very sobering. Until next time, bye...
After writing my last blog update, Dave and I decided to head over to a part of Tokyo we hadn't yet visited called Roppongi. We realised when we got there that the only thing that seemed to be worth doing was to go up Tokyo tower. So after some debating whether to pay, we decided not to be stingy and so it. Though we did try to get in as 15 year olds again, but this time were unsuccessful and had to pay adult price. I was thankful we did as the view from the tower gave us a fantastic overview of the city, and the sheer scale of Tokyo. Being a logically-minded person, seeing Tokyo from above provided me with a better sense of direction and understanding of where everything was (too bad it was on the last night). Below are a few photos, both of the tower and from inside it.
We then decided to go back the bright lights of Shibuya, which were even more spectacular at night. Our immaturity got the better of us and again we decided to play games on the crossing, trying to touch a pole on each corner of the crossing before the lights went green again. We also had an interesting experience, as two different guys asked us at seperate places if we were available for modelling. Unfortunately it wasn't for another few weeks so with regret we informed them we were unavailable. Scam? We chose to believe it wasn't.
When we returned to Asakusa and Khaosan (our hostel name), our Dutch roomie Patrick asked to go out for a few beers with his Dutch friends. While on the way to the bar, we discovered some interesting facts about the Netherlands:
-People that called it "Holland" are wrong - Holland is a province within the Netherlands
- Every year in the speech from the Pope, he always thanks the Netherlands for the Tulips
- After asking what hello was in Dutch, Patrick responded with "Hullo!"
After a few beers -Dave's first drink in 20 months - we went home and to bed ready to get up for the train to Kyoto at 10:30 the next morning. Below is a photo of Dave and Patrick in "Mosburger", because Patrick really wanted a hamburger.
KYOTO
If I fell in love with Tokyo, then i don't have words to describe Kyoto. It has lived up to and exceeded all expectations. The fact that we have done all our commuting via bike may have added to the allure of the city. Dave's uncle Vince was kind enough to provide accomodation and also borrow his bikes, mine of which is brand new.
We caught a "Hikari" train from Tokyo to Kyoto, making the 450 km journey take all of 2 and half hours. We were also privileged with a great view of Mt Fuji on the way, as we had a perfectly clear day. Upon arriving in Kyoto, we were greeted by Vince who was keen to show us the view from the top of Kyoto station. As Vince said, the building effectively cuts Kyoto in half as it is about 500m long and 10 stories high (there is not an abundance of high rise buildings in Kyoto, especially compared to Tokyo.) After settling in, we rode into town to meet Vince's wife Ann for dinner at a Vegan restaurant. Our first glimpses of the city were splendid as we rode along the side of the river and weaved through the many backstreets within the maze that is Kyoto.
The next morning we woke up semi-late to be greeted with a "Good Afternoon" by Vince. We ate breakfast which included plenty of toasted bagels (it's as if Dave never knew they existed, as he wouldn't stop talking about them). The four of us jumped on bikes and made our way through the city till we made it to Mt Daimongi, on the outskirts of the city (Kyoto is actually surrounded by mountains, giving a Lismore-esque feel apart from the fact it is 50 times bigger and 1000 times nicer.) A short hike up the hill revealed a breathtaking view of this marvellous city, as you can see in the photo below.
We then had lunch at what may possibly be Dave's new favourite restaurant - The Tofu Cafe. After a delicious lunch we had a Soft cream - Soy milk ice cream. To my great surprise, Vanilla soy ice cream actually tasted good. Yes, good... As you can see from the photo below, Dave was in heaven.
Following lunch and an ice cream, Dave and I reverted to something a little more touristy and went to look at Kinkakuji (Japanese for golden pavillion). It was a phenomenal site, seeing an old Emperor's Gold house. The phrase "How's the serenity?" was thrown around a few times between us. As you can see below, Kinkakuji is quite a sight and i wouldn't mind living there myself!
I think that is enough for now, as a Japanese Yebisu beer is calling and the smell of Dave's Indian curry is wafting out of the kitchen and into the living room. We go on a 4 day bike ride on Monday. I'm apprehensive, mainly due to my fitness levels but I'm sure it will be an amazing way to see Japan. Our trip includes visiting Hiroshima. A place that I am very interested to go, though I'm sure the experience will be very sobering. Until next time, bye...
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