Sapa, Vietnam & Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I keep telling myself that if I didn't do an entry soon I would forget what I have done. It's weird to think that things that happened only a week ago I can hardly remember. I think it is due to the overwhelming amount of new experiences that occur everyday when traveling, especially in places with vast cultural differences. These new experiences contribute to the beauty of traveling and I guess that is why so many people just grab a bag, fill it with necessities and bail overseas for indefinite amounts of time.

Sapa for me was a chance to see another part of Vietnam-the traditional side. That probably sounds cliche but you tend to forget that in many parts of Asia, people still live in huts thatched with mud and sticks and for them, technology is unnecessary. Dave and I signed up for the full day hike to the village of Lau Chai, down in the valley near Sapa. (though 5 hours of mainly downhill doesn't really constitute a hike in my eyes). Our guide was a local H'mong girl from the village of Lau Chai and I soon discovered she was also 19. Upon further discussion, I learnt that she walked 14km a day - a loop from her village to Sapa and back - to earn money being a guide. I also discovered that she had never been anywhere else in Vietnam. I naively assumed she of course had been to Hanoi at least once, but I was wrong. This once again enforced to me how lucky I am to have the opportunity to travel the world, let alone my own country.

The following day we returned to Hanoi on the sleeper train and again met up with Tuan for "brunch". After brunch Tuan kindly invited us to his home, where he gave us some surprisingly wise advice on many aspects of life (though his demeanour seemed to remain extremely casual while doing so and I'm not even sure if he realised how much Dave and I took away from the discussions.) I can remember one quote among the many, this one being more comical: "The Vietnamese use their hands for three things; Chicken, sticky rice and women" He also highlighted the ridiculous real estate prices in Hanoi to which I was amazed, as a Vietnamese person on an average wage would take hundreds of years to pay off a mortgage on the median house price.

After the real estate talk Dave and I headed back to where we were staying, had some dinner and got some rest for an early flight to Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Heat engulfed as we left the airport. It was definitely hotter and more humid than Hanoi. We caught a Tuk-Tuk to our accomodation in the city, had a walk around and then decided to visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (sometimes known as S-21), the head prison for torture and execution during the years of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot. Between 1975 and 1979 20,000 prisoners were sent to S-21 and by the end of 1979-when the Khmer Rouge lost power- there were 7 people left alive. I think that the museum was much more confronting and had a stronger impact because it has been left unchanged since those horrific years under Pol Pot. The irony of the prison was that it was originally a school, a place that is synonymous with laughter and enjoyment. This idea was turned on its head when it was made into a prison. The countless black and white photos of people made my head spin and the fact that this prison was smack-bang in the middle of the city must have been torture for the victims, as a busy road is literally within 50 metres of prison cells.

Once again the prison visit correlated with my modern history studies as our Indochina topic included the uprising of the Khmer Rouge and also their years in power. The two hardest things for me to wrap my head around were firstly, that it was in such close proximity to now (being only about 30 years ago) and secondly that there was literally no response from any western power whatsoever. Historians estimate between 1.5 and 3 million people were killed. There is no way that western powers couldn't have known that something bad was going on and made at least some effort to stop it. I also watched a movie while there that made you think more about the humanity of it all, as opposed to the numbers of people killed. The movie highlighted the fact that these people were sons and daughters and mothers and fathers.

That night we went out to dinner with Bill, Didge and Archie, my Mum's friend's brother and his family, who funnily enough is currently the head prosecutor for the War Crimes tribunal in Cambodia for men involved in the mass genocide during the Khmer Rouge years. It was interesting to hear his thoughts on the topic and it was also great to have a free dinner (thanks heaps guys, we must have looked like pretty bedraggled backpackers at that stage).

The following morning we went to the Chuong Ek Killing Fields. This was the place where the victims of S-21 were sent to be executed. It was another sobering experience and again reiterated the points that I mentioned above. The brutality of it all was incomprehensible. I left with mixed feelings of the place.

That night we decided to sample the nightlife of Phnom Penh. With beers costing 50c a glass, it was all too alluring to ignore. It was a fun night and we met some British girls who promised me a "Skins tour of Bristol". So excited. Haha. Hopefully they'll keep their promise.

The following morning it was time to board the bus for a 6 hour drive to Siem Reap, home of the famous Angkor Wat temple. (Some people may also recognise Ta Prohm temple from a scene in Tomb Raider). I quickly learnt that Cambodian roads don't agree with a hangover and it wasn't the most fun bus trip ever, but it was all part of the learning curve that is travelling. We were picked up by Pahna, who has now become our Tuk-Tuk man in Siem Reap, and taken to our accomodation at the Golden Mango. When we got there we had to double check it was the right place - it was cheaper than any hostel in Siem Reap yet if i had to guess I would have thought it was at least $50 US a night. Apparently not. It is a Khmer family-run business and I would recommend it to anyone from a budget traveller to a person wanting more. Because for $6 US a night I don't think anyone could complain.

I'm way to exhausted from writing this to possibly talk about our temple visit in this entry. It would be superficial and for some reason this blog has been quite draining. My adventures in Siem Reap will be up soon for anyone interested. Cheers for reading and farewell!